A finished sweater. At long last.
The projects continue! Jonathan’s sweater is done, and thank goodness.
When we left off last, I was waiting on the 3rd shipment of yarn, in the correct dye lot. It arrived in good time, and I picked back up to work – lengthening the body of the sweater a bit, and re-starting the yoke. Just so you can share in the pain, here are the pieces worked with the wrong dye lot:
No, that’s not “just a shadow or a wrinkle”…boo hoo…
This sweater has been a learning experience, let me tell you. Buy enough of the right dye lot, and DO THE MATH! You might remember my Adventures in Pooling, wherein I extolled the pleasures of doing knitting math. Well, dear friends, I’m actually a little bit afraid of math. And occasionally, I let myself think that things will figure themselves out just fine without my intervention. Knitting denial, let’s call it. So when it came time to turn the shoulders of this bad boy (much like turning a toe-up Widdershins-esque heel – the coolest no-pick-up flap heel ever), I just had at. At each end of flap row, I’d work 2 together with the held stitches along the front and back, then turn, slip the first stitch, and work across the flap again (if you’ve done Widdershins, Interlocking Leaves, or a similar toe-up flap heel, this should make sense to you).
The problem is, knit stitches are not squares, or in this case, 2:1 rectangles. These particular knit stitches are 3:4 (6 stitches per inch, 8 rows per inch). To make the shoulders, you need to line up rows with stitches, so going 1:1 or 1:2 will both cause problems – you need to work at a rate of 3:4. Below, see what happens when you do what I did, and unthinkingly (DENIAL!) work at a rate of 2 rows per 1 stitch:
Pucker up! The yoke becomes bulky and puckery, and Jonathan (the sweetheart) tried to minimize the effect by puffing up his chest and shoulders as much as possible when trying it on, but alas, no dice. Learning experience, right?
So, I ripped back to the shoulder turn point, and tried again. Work to the end of the flap, ssk. Turn, p2togbl, work to end of flap, p2tog. Turn, k2tog, work to end of flap, ssk. Turn, slip 1, work to end of flap, p2tog. Turn, sl1, repeat. When you work a decrease at the end of the flap and immediately after at the beginning (after the turn), that’s 1:1 (or 2:2). When you slip the first stitch of the flap after working a decrease before it, that’s 1:2. Alternate these, and you get 3:4, which is what we need. Phew.
How many times have I ripped parts of this sweater back? Many. But, it’s done!
(let’s not talk about the way the sleeves and body bias right…we’re ignoring that one…)